The Science: Ingredient Research Hub
The ingredient research hub
An honest, plain English look at the published research behind the ingredients in Korean skincare, gathered in one place.
Why we made this. Skincare is full of big claims, so we wanted to show you the actual research instead. Below you will find real, published studies for each headline ingredient, every one linked so you can read it yourself. We have kept the language simple and we have been upfront about how strong, or how early, the evidence really is.
Please read this first. The studies here use different methods. Some tested an ingredient applied to the skin, some used oral supplements, some used clinic injections, and some were laboratory studies on cells. Results from injections, supplements or laboratory work describe the ingredient itself. They are not claims about our products. Our range is cosmetics, meaning skincare used on the surface of the skin for beauty and grooming. Cosmetics are not therapeutic goods and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease or condition. This page is for education, not medical advice.
Study method
How we rate the strength of evidence
Salmon DNA, PDRN and PN
Mostly by injectionWhat it is. PDRN, or polydeoxyribonucleotide, is a purified fragment of DNA taken from salmon. Polynucleotides, or PN, are the closely related longer chains used in clinic skin boosters. Both are prized in Korea for being gentle and skin compatible.
Most of the research explores how PDRN and PN support wound repair, calm redness and improve skin quality when used by trained practitioners as injections. Laboratory work has also looked at how PDRN behaves around pigment cells.
Our honest read. The strongest human evidence for PDRN and PN comes from clinic injections and wound care, not from skincare applied to the skin. We stock cosmetics that feature salmon DNA, so we share this research to explain the ingredient, not to borrow injection results as claims about our serums. The brightening idea is promising but still at the laboratory stage.
Journal of Clinical Endocrinology & Metabolism, 2014 · Squadrito F et al.
In a randomised controlled trial, PDRN injections helped more chronic ulcers heal completely than placebo.
Journal of Korean Medical Science, 2014 · Kim JY et al.
A randomised trial found PDRN injections sped up the shrinking of pressure ulcers compared with usual care.
Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2022 · Lee YJ et al.
In a small split face trial, polynucleotide injections around the eyes improved elasticity, roughness and pores, performing on par with a hyaluronic acid filler.
International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2016 · Noh TK et al.
In cultured pigment cells, PDRN reduced melanin production, hinting at a possible brightening role that has not yet been shown on real skin.
Frontiers in Pharmacology, 2017 · Squadrito F et al.
A broad review of how PDRN supports tissue repair and calms inflammation, with clinical use led by injectable and wound applications.
NAD+
Mechanism strong, skincare earlyWhat it is. NAD+ is a molecule every cell uses for energy and repair. Its levels fall as we age, which is why it has become such a talking point in skin science.
Research explores how NAD+ underpins skin cell energy and DNA repair, and whether feeding that pathway can support healthier looking skin over time.
Our honest read. The biology is real and well described, but NAD+ applied directly to the skin is still at the laboratory stage. The practical, human proven way to support the NAD+ pathway on your face is niacinamide, the vitamin your cells convert into NAD+. See the niacinamide section for the strong human evidence.
DNA Repair, 2014 · Oblong JE
Explains how NAD+ and niacinamide levels drop with age and sit at the centre of skin cell energy and repair.
Antioxidants, 2021 · Boo YC
Reviews how niacinamide supports NAD+ dependent repair and summarises the human evidence for softer lines and more even tone.
Cells, 2024 · Kang S et al.
In cultured human skin cells, added NAD+ helped protect against ageing markers, with the effect improved by certain plant compounds.
Collagen peptides
Strong for oralWhat it is. Collagen is the protein that gives skin its firmness and bounce. Collagen peptides are small, broken down pieces that the body can absorb, used in supplements and in some skincare.
Research explores whether oral collagen peptides improve skin elasticity and hydration, and whether smaller peptides applied to the skin can soften the look of lines.
Our honest read. The strongest, most repeated evidence is for oral collagen supplements taken as a drink or capsule. Peptides applied to the skin have smaller cosmetic studies. Oral and applied are different things, so we keep them separate here.
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2014 · Proksch E et al.
Eight weeks of collagen peptides significantly improved skin elasticity in women aged 35 to 55 versus placebo.
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2021 · Miyanaga M et al.
Collagen peptides raised skin hydration and natural moisturising factor levels in the outer skin layer versus placebo.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2005 · Robinson LR et al.
A peptide serum applied to the face reduced the look of wrinkles and improved sun aged skin over twelve weeks versus placebo.
Cosmetics, 2017 · Schagen SK
A review of which skincare peptides have the best support for smoothing lines and supporting firmness.
Exosomes
EmergingWhat it is. Exosomes are tiny messenger packages that cells use to send signals to one another. In skincare they are being explored as a way to carry rejuvenating signals to the skin.
Research explores exosomes for the look of ageing, for calming, for wound repair and for hair, from many different sources including stem cells and plants.
Our honest read. This is an exciting but early field. Most of the strong data is still from the laboratory or animal studies, and human work is small and often done alongside a clinic procedure. Manufacturing is not yet standardised for cosmetics, so we describe exosomes as emerging, not proven.
International Journal of Biological Sciences, 2024 · Yu H et al.
Reviews how exosomes may help wound healing, scarring, pigment and ageing, calling the field promising but still developing.
Dermatology Practical & Conceptual, 2026 · Alzahrani A et al.
A structured review found encouraging anti ageing signals but concluded the studies so far are small and mixed.
ACS Nano, 2019 · Hu S et al.
In sun damaged mouse skin, skin cell exosomes increased collagen and reduced signs of photoageing.
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2025 · Al Ameer MA et al.
Early reports suggest scalp exosome treatments may help hair density, but the human evidence is small and not standardised.
Cica exosomes
Very earlyWhat it is. Cica exosomes are exosome like nanovesicles drawn from Centella asiatica, the soothing herb known as cica. They pair the messenger idea of exosomes with the calming reputation of centella.
Research explores whether centella derived vesicles can calm the skin, protect against sun stress and support a smoother, more hydrated look.
Our honest read. This is the newest and thinnest area on the whole page. The laboratory and animal signals are interesting, and the one human study is a preprint, meaning it has not yet been checked by other scientists. Treat this as one to watch, not settled proof.
International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2025 · Chang TM et al.
Centella vesicles supported skin repair and reduced sun damage in cell and mouse models.
Future Science OA, 2026 · Barlian A et al.
Centella leaf vesicles calmed inflammation and protected cells against sun driven ageing in laboratory tests.
medRxiv preprint, 2025 · Chang TM et al. · not yet peer reviewed
A 28 day face study of a cica vesicle formula reported better hydration, elasticity, lines, redness and pores. As a preprint, it still needs independent review.
Centella, Cica
Good, often in blendsWhat it is. Centella asiatica, known as cica, is a herb used for centuries to calm and comfort skin. Its active parts include madecassoside, asiaticoside and asiatic acid.
Research explores centella for soothing, for supporting the skin barrier, for the look of firmness and for helping skin recover.
Our honest read. Centella has a solid soothing tradition and some good human studies. A few of the strongest results come from formulas that combine centella with other actives, so we avoid crediting centella alone for every benefit.
Experimental Dermatology, 2008 · Haftek M et al.
Six months of madecassoside with vitamin C applied to the skin improved signs of sun aged skin, including elasticity and deeper lines.
Nutrients, 2026 · Hur N et al.
An oral centella extract improved skin ageing measures such as hydration and elasticity versus placebo.
Phytotherapy Research, 2014 · Bylka W et al.
Reviews centella's calming actives and their role in comfort, collagen support and skin recovery.
Pharmaceutics, 2024 · Witkowska K et al.
Summarises how centella applied to the skin may support recovery through collagen, antioxidant and soothing actions.
Adenosine
Strong for smoothingWhat it is. Adenosine is a small molecule your cells make naturally for energy signalling. In skincare it is a well known smoothing ingredient, and it is an approved anti wrinkle functional ingredient in Korea.
Research explores adenosine applied to the skin for the look of fine lines, roughness, firmness and hydration.
Our honest read. This one has good human studies for skincare applied to the face. Many use a specific formula, so effects are best described for adenosine containing products rather than adenosine on its own.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2006 · Abella ML
Adenosine formulas measurably reduced the depth of wrinkles around the eyes and brow versus placebo.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018 · Kang G et al.
Adenosine patches matched or beat adenosine cream for crow's feet, skin density, elasticity and hydration.
Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2007 · Legendre JY et al.
A dissolvable adenosine film reduced skin roughness after several weeks of twice daily use.
Growth factors
Promising, often industry ledWhat it is. Growth factors are natural proteins that tell skin cells to renew and repair. In skincare they include ingredients such as EGF and FGF, and blends grown from cell cultures.
Research explores growth factor serums for the look of fine lines, texture, firmness and sun damage.
Our honest read. There are real human studies, but many are small and funded by the makers, so reviews are the most balanced source. We treat growth factors as promising cosmetic actives rather than proven treatments.
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2023 · Quinlan DJ et al.
Across the pooled studies, growth factor serums showed generally favourable but methodologically limited results for lines, texture and sun damage.
Dermatology and Therapy, 2023 · Naughton GK et al.
A cultured growth factor serum reduced wrinkles, sagging and sun damage more than placebo over 24 weeks, with supporting skin sample changes. Note this study was industry funded.
Annals of Dermatology, 2017 · Ha JM et al.
An EGF formula improved the look of wrinkles around the eyes in the people who used it.
Amino acids
Strong for hydrationWhat it is. Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins, and they make up much of the skin's own natural moisturising factor, the built in system that holds water in the outer skin.
Research explores how amino acids support hydration and a healthy skin barrier, and how the skin's amino acid supply changes with age.
Our honest read. Amino acids are genuinely central to how skin stays hydrated and comfortable, and the human evidence supports their use for moisture and barrier support.
Molecules, 2021 · Schleusener J et al.
In a placebo controlled trial, natural moisturising factor components including amino acids raised bound water in the skin and helped preserve its protective lipid structure.
International Journal of Dermatology, 2021 · Boireau-Adamezyk E et al.
Skin hydration and the amino acid makeup of the natural moisturising factor shift with age and sun exposure, linking amino acids to skin water content.
Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2010 · Robinson M et al.
Foundational work showing the natural moisturising factor is mostly free amino acids and how it is lost, which is why moisturisers add them back.
Niacinamide
StrongWhat it is. Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 and one of the best studied ingredients in all of skincare. It is also the vitamin your cells turn into NAD+.
Research explores niacinamide applied to the skin for even tone, the look of fine lines, barrier comfort and oil control.
Our honest read. This is as solid as skincare evidence gets, with several independent human trials. We are comfortable calling niacinamide well proven for even tone, smoothness and barrier support.
British Journal of Dermatology, 2002 · Hakozaki T et al.
Niacinamide reduced the spread of pigment to skin cells and visibly reduced dark spots versus placebo.
Dermatologic Surgery, 2005 · Bissett DL et al.
In a double blind, split face trial, niacinamide improved fine lines, dark spots, redness, yellowing and elasticity.
Dermatology Research and Practice, 2011 · Navarrete-Solis J et al.
Niacinamide gave improvement in melasma comparable to hydroquinone, with fewer side effects.
Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 2006 · Draelos ZD et al.
Niacinamide applied to the face lowered oil production versus placebo.
Glutathione
Mixed and limitedWhat it is. Glutathione is an antioxidant your body makes. It is popular for skin tone, and it comes in oral, applied to skin and injected forms.
Research explores whether glutathione can gently even skin tone and reduce pigment when taken by mouth or applied to the skin.
Our honest read. The evidence is mixed. Small trials suggest a modest effect on pigment, but studies are short and results are inconsistent, so we frame it as limited and emerging. Injected glutathione is a separate matter, covered in the caution below.
Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2012 · Arjinpathana N, Asawanonda P
Oral glutathione lowered pigment readings at several sites versus placebo, but the effect was modest and only borderline.
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2014 · Watanabe F et al.
A glutathione lotion applied to the skin reduced pigment readings and improved moisture and the look of lines in a small trial.
International Journal of Dermatology, 2025 · Sarkar R et al.
Concludes glutathione can modestly reduce pigment in some trials, but the overall evidence is limited by small, short studies with mixed results.
Skincare you can feel good about
Our range brings authentic Korean salmon DNA skincare to Australia, shipped from the Gold Coast. Cosmetics, made to be gentle, made to be enjoyed.
Explore the rangeDisclaimer: this page is provided for general education about skincare ingredients and is not medical advice. The studies linked here were carried out by independent researchers using various methods, including ingredients applied to the skin, taken orally, injected in clinics, or tested in the laboratory. Their results describe the ingredients studied and are not claims about Salmon DNA Australia products. Our products are cosmetics, not therapeutic goods, and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease or condition. Always patch test new skincare, and speak with a qualified health professional about your individual needs. Not suitable for those with a fish allergy.